Varenna: Vezio Castle
On the bluff overlooking Varenna, the Vezio Castle has stood for more than a thousand years. It’s history differs depending on where you read it, yet the one that sounds the most honest says the origins of the fortification are not clear. The place name of Vezio is probably of Roman origin, as can be seen from the Roman families who also had this name who were also living in the Como area. Various writers, such as Pensa, for example, believe that the beginnings of the Castle date back to Late Antiquity, a time that links it to being used as a strategic military hub during the late Roman period. From here, it would have been possible to keep watch over the road that went from Bellano to Esino Lario, and it was also used as a watch tower and a signaling point that overlooked the whole lake. There is not a lot that can be said about the Byzantine and Lombardic periods that followed, except for a legend about the queen Theodelinda. It is said that during her final years spent in Perledo, the renowned Theodelinda, queen of the Lombards, arranged for the joint construction of Saint Martin’s Church, which has an old tower-like belfry, Castle Vezio, and the Oratory of Saint Anthony, so that she could leave a visible trace of her Christian faith behind.
The hike up is steep and beautiful, with a small village outside the castle that greets you.
DIRECTIONS: From the Varenna landing ferry you will find a street straight in front of you between the "Cavallino" restaurant and the pub "L’Orso", that within a few meters takes you in front of the Montecodeno restaurant. Just to the left of the restaurant, you will find the path to go up to Vezio Castle. The climb is quite steep, but short. In less than 20 minutes you will be in Vezio.
There is one lovely little pub where we bought our tickets and a cold beer after the very hot climb. Then on to explore the castle and it’s grounds as well as take in the amazing views from the top of the hill and tower.
Interestingly, this land is still private property with a non-profit organization taking care of the upkeep. It’s also become a Falconry, home to the care and training for various birds of prey. We were able to meet Artü, a magnificent 14 year old Eurasain eagle owl and Breva, a 6 year old black kite.
We took a different route down making it a lovely circle with great scenery. It was a fabulous way to spend time earning our daily pasta and Prosecco.
