Day 27: Rabanal Del Camino - El Acebo, 16.5 km.
The first 5.6 km to Foncebaden is an ascent up the mountain. It also just happened to be pouring down rain with a very cold headwind so the conditions were challenging. We made it to the first town and ordered cafe con leche and fried eggs on toast to wait out the rain.
Our next stop, 2.1 km continuing up the mountain, is Cruz de Ferro. This stop I have known of, and planned for, since before leaving Tiburon. It is the location of an iron cross on top of a 5 meter wooden pole at one of the highest points of the entire Camino Frances, 1504 meters. The peregrino tradition is to bring a stone from home that you carry here and leave on the pile of many thousands of stones left before us. Leaving a stone represents the leaving behind of a burden or letting go of something in your life. My stone came from my beach in Tiburon. This was a significant and long anticipated moment on my journey...a true and literal milestone. These well known and anticipated iconic locations are emotional, to arrive at the place I’ve read about and seen in pictures & movies, and serve as a good reminder to become present with the magnitude of the journey I’ve been on. The revelation of the impact of trusting the Mystery to unfold in care for me, and to count my blessings that indeed the care has always been here throughout.
Continuing just past the cross is the actual highest elevation of the Camino Frances and therefore the start of a long, arduous, steep, and rocky trek back down the mountain. 2 km down is an abandoned 12th century village, mostly in ruins, that now has a unique albergue and an official population of 1, Thomas. (Pictured). Very cool place to stop and check out.
We descended about 1/3 of the way to El Acebo when we decided to call it an early day before more big storms came in. We've been slogging through the mud for some time so wine, hot showers, laundry, food, massage, and relaxing in front of the fire...in that order, became our priority.
This is my friend Bryan’s first hike up and over a mountain since he started his Camino in Burgos, on this side of the Pyrenees. Like many on the Way, he never believed his body could do an adventure like this. We are celebrating his accomplishments on the Camino this far and cheering both our bodies exceeding all expectations. It's been an emotional and very successful day.
