The West Highland Way Day 5: Tyndrum to Glencoe
Fri 28 Jul 2023
Tyndrum to Glencoe Ski Center
Estimated hiking time 9h
29.1 km | 18.1 miles (our actual: 29.7 km / 18.45 miles)
Ascent: 592 m | 1,942.3 ft
Decent: 463 m | 1.519 ft
This day had been on my heart and mind since the beginning of the trek because it is our top mileage & elevation day. Based on the description, it sounded like the hike would be super intense. On top of that we had a deadline, we had to make it to our destination no later than 5:30pm to catch a shuttle to our local lodge for the night. The official estimated time to hike this day was 9 hours so we decided to give ourselves 10 just in case it was crazy steep and hard. Better early then miss the shuttle and have to keep walking.
We woke seeing a bit of blue sky and feeling excited and hopeful for a good weather day. Just as we were about to walk out of our Bed & Breakfast at 0730, the weather changed, and the rain started. At least we were still inside when it happened, so we unpacked all our rain gear, suited up, and headed out. It only lasted about 30 minutes and then the clouds lifted, and that was it for the rain. A true miracle!! We ended up with the most magnificent day…a patchwork of clouds and blue skies with a lovely cool breeze…truly we were gifted with the best weather to walk through what they say is the “best scenery” on The Way. I can attest, the entire day was absolutely stunning.
The entire first half of the trip was incredibly easy, with the best “easy under foot” paths through the glens to the town called the Bridge of Orchy and it’s hotel, the 1st of only 2 places for a pitstop along the way.
Leaving there and by the time we started climbing, we were ready for the change of pace and looking forward to some hills. The views from the top of Mam Carraigh looking down on Loch Tulla on our right were lovely.
Reaching our 2nd pit stop at the Inveroran Hotel, we had made great time and were ½ through the days’ hike in 3.5 hours. We had more than enough time to make our shuttle. We were sure the 2nd half of the hike was going to be a monster. We were right but not in the way we were thinking.
This was the beginning of the trek across the Rannoch Moor, also known as the Great Moor of Rannoch, which is often referred to as “one of the last remaining wildernesses in Europe.” It’s 50-square miles of exposed moorland, a vast wilderness of heather and bog encircled by “grand” (for Scotland) mountains. As the largest area of blanket bog in the country, it is made up of 82% water! The crossing of Rannoch Moor is one of the classic stages of this hike, and probably the most barren and isolated part of the West Highland Way. It is a high plateau upon which the route proceeds along an Old Military road that in the 18th and 19th centuries was used by cattle drovers to walk their livestock to market. The elevation was incredibly gradual and totally doable. The only thing that really made this part strenuous, and the reason for this being a “monster,” was the length of the hike on one of the most painful rocky walking paths ever! The road is made of large protruding stones which are uneven underfoot and it was relentless, lasting the entire next 15km/9 miles. We realized just how incredibly blessed we were for our perfect weather day as there is no shelter whatsoever and in bad weather, we would have been completely exposed to all the elements.
Our day of walking ended at the Glencoe Mountain Resort where we would catch our shuttle and stay the night in the heart of the famous and stunningly beautiful Glencoe Valley. These mountains were the most spectacular and majestic I’d seen in Scotland so far, with thundering rivers and waterfalls tumbling from the high rugged peaks. Wow!! The shuttle ride itself was a real and unexpected treat offering us the opportunity to see parts of the valley we would not be walking through. This area is a hugely popular tourist area for it’s breathtaking beauty.
We stayed in the 300 year old Clachaig Inn with a fun pub attached, which we loved. We were rewarded for our long day of hiking getting to sit in their beautiful outdoor sitting area, order food and drink my wine, and take in the beautiful views from our hotel. All in all, it was a spectacular day!
