The West Highland Way Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Wed 26 Jul 2023
Hiking from Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Estimated Hiking Time: 7h
22.7 km / 14.1 miles (our actual: 28 km / 17.15 miles)
Ascent: 216 m | 708.7 ft
Descent: 229 m | 751.3 ft
Today was supposed to be slightly shorter and we were hoping it would be a bit easier. Our first choice leaving Rowardennan was whether to take the low road or the high road, both official routes on the WHW. The low route is said to be rockier and more difficult, with lake and waterfalls close to the shoreline. The high route is more gentle, better under foot, and would have lake and waterfall views from higher up. Given that yesterday from Drymen to Rowardennan had been longer and harder than expected, and the paths had been full of rocks and boulders, we chose the high road. Just before we were walking out the door, the rain started. The timing was perfect as it allowed us to put our rain gear on before walking out the door.
Leaving Rowardennan, the West Highland Way follows forestry roads and offered us a gentle climb high up above Loch Lomond, giving fantastic views over the water and towards the peaks of the Arrochar Alps. We spent a few hours hiking with views of the Lock to our left and crossing over streams while enjoying the sound of running water the entire way.
Eventually the high route and the low route merged together into one trail. As we got closer to our first stop in Inversnaid, the only supported stop on this section of the Way, the path narrows and becomes more up and down. We passed over a bridge and waterfall just as we arrived to the Inversnaid Hotel approximately 3 hours of hiking later. We took our first break here and enjoyed a bit of a respite including a glass of red wine for me.
The path from Inversnaid to the end of the loch was very hard going, it felt more like bouldering for hours with numerous ups and downs on a generally wet sometimes muddy surface. It gave us a real run for our money. For hours we had to be extremely mindful, I called it a meditation, purposefully selecting every location we placed our feet. It was nonstop steep up and steep down. AND once again…the second ½ of the day ended up longer and harder than expected. It was also one of the most beautiful days…the scenery was exquisite.
Below in this beautiful setting is Doune Byre Bothy one of many free bothies owned and maintained by the Mountain Bothy Association (MBA) and is a well known rest stop on the West Highland Way. Bothies are shelters – left unlocked – where hikers can sleep or take refuge from bad weather, free of charge. It contains basic furniture, a fireplace and 4 raised wooden platforms in which to place your sleeping bag. There was a gal sitting outside writing in a journal when we passed by. I am curious to know this house’s story before it became a ruin shelter.
There was fresh running water everywhere. We climbed over stream after stream, walked through a field of very happy ferns, and much of the time we were in close proximity to Loch Lomand. We ended our hike at a lovely campsite with some cabins and ensuite rooms as well a fun little pub. Another epic day on The Way.
