Edinburgh: Dean Village & Stockbridge
There is much more to Edinburgh then just Old Town, the Royal Mile, and Castle Hill. A very walkable city, it’s easy to explore the neighborhoods outside of city center. I started with Dean Village, one of the oldest and most picturesque villages in Edinburgh, sitting on the Water of Leith, Edinburgh's largest river. This area was at the top of my priority list to see and explore. Founded during the twelfth century by the Canons Regular of Holyrood Abbey, it is also known as the Water of Leith Village. Dean Village (dene means "deep valley" in Scots) was a prosperous hamlet for over 800 years. In the past, the area had 11 working mills on the strong currents of the city's river. The pretty stone houses along the riverbank dating from the seventeenth century give this part of Edinburgh a unique charm. It's easily walkable from Old Town and once you arrive, it’s a beautiful and leisurely walk along the water.
The Water of Leith Walkway offers a an idyllic walking experience along its 13 mile route starting from Balerno, running through the city and finishing at the outflow into the Firth of Forth at Leith. You can hop on and off in many different areas. It’s a quiet oasis away from the noise and bustle of city center. Dean Village was my starting point.
Near Dean Village along the pathway is St. Bernard’s Well which was discovered in 1760, locals believed that ‘taking the waters’ in this natural spring was thought to have restorative, if not actual healing, powers. This neo-classical temple was designed by the Scottish artist Alexander Nasmyth in 1789, complete with Doric columns and a dome topped with a golden pineapple. The figurine inside the structure is a depiction of Hygieia, the Greek goddess of health.
I came upon this “man” standing in the water and had to look it up as there is no information about who or what this is. Turns out it’s one of celebrated artist and sculptor Antony Gormley’s Standing Man statues. Forming part of his 6 TIMES series consisting of six sculptures all along the river, this being the first and can be found outside the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. You can then follow the trail through the walkway, before culminating at the shore in Leith.
I continued walking the path that runs next to the Water of Leith to my destination of Stockbridge, one of the city’s most popular neighborhoods and for good reason. I really fell in love with this area. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, Stockbridge established itself as a favorite hangout for artists, poets, writers and musicians, whose presence helped to shape the village’s Bohemian culture that still survives today. Artisans also made Stockbridge the center for their trade; today, the Stockbridge Colonies, the rows of terraced housing originally constructed for skilled workers in the second half of the 19th century, stand as a legacy to the growth of industry in Edinburgh. While strolling through, don’t miss the Old Stockbridge Market Gate, the remnants of a facade from a 19th-century market stall emporium, just off Circus Lane down a pedestrian avenue.
When in Stockbridge, I definitely recommend taking the short stroll down Circus Lane, known as one of the most charming streets in Edinburgh made famous by Instagram posts it would seem. Circus Lane is a mews lane built around 1765. A mews lane is essentially a row of stables and carriage houses that had homes or spaces to live directly above them. They were built on the backside of homes, typically owned by more wealthy residents. Towards the middle of Circus Lane, you’ll see St. Stephen’s Church in the distance at the end of the lane.
Stockbridge is definitely the area I would recommend when looking to fill your tummy or wet your whistle. There are a number of cozy coffee shops, artisan food and drink cafes, galleries and crafts shops showcasing local artists, weekly markets…it’s just worth wondering around and popping into whatever place calls to you. I am thrilled to have found an Italian wine bar, Bacco Wine Merchant right next to it’s sister restaurant, an Italian homemade pasta shop called The Artisan Pasta Maker. You can sit in the wine bar, order your wine, walk next door, order your homemade pasta with yummy sauce of choice, and it’s delivered to you back at your table next door. It was maybe the best pasta I’ve had in as long as I can remember. 100% Italian! I could eat there 3 times a week, if not more…good thing I don’t live close by.
