Corsica: Enchanting Bonifacio
Bonifacio, Corsica, captivates with its stunning beauty and rich history. Perched atop limestone cliffs, this enchanting town offers breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea. Steeped in legends and tales of pirates, Bonifacio has an air of mystery that adds to its allure.
Founded in 828 A.D., Bonifacio is Corsica’s oldest town and is believed to have been referenced in one of the most ancient and popular poems ever written. According to legend, it’s the island of Laestrygonians (the name is akin to that of the Lestriconi, a branch of the Corsi people) in Homer’s “Odyssey” where Greek hero Odysseus anchored their ships in the harbor so they could explore the island and have a rest from their travels. Not knowing if the island was completely safe, Odysseus decided eleven of the ships would anchor in the harbor, while the twelfth should anchor outside. It turns out the island was inhabited by a tribe of man-eating giants who ate many of Odysseus's men and destroyed eleven of his twelve ships by launching rocks from high cliffs. Odysseus's ship was not destroyed because it was hidden in a cove outside the harbor. Everyone on Odysseus's ship survived the incident.
It’s charming old town sits at around 70 meters/230 feet above sea level and way down below on the north side lies the sheltered and picturesque harbor, with the two linked by more of those staircases I’ve spoken about in the previous post. My favorite thing to do in a new location is to just walk and wander as that’s the only way I can really get to know a place. Doing it here is like stepping into a story book of medieval times with it’s narrow cobblestone streets and ancient fortifications. It’s truly one of the more unique places I’ve explored. The old upper town is an irregular grid of streets and narrow alleyways, with medieval townhouses five or six stories high. Enclosing the Old Town are the ancient walls of the citadel. The vibrant atmosphere here, infused with a Mediterranean flair, is embraced by the local culture and cuisine, it’s easy to fully immerse yourself in its captivating ambiance.
Our apartment on Rue Longue which was the citadel’s main street during Genoese occupancy. Some may know Corsica as the birthplace of Napoleon, the French Emperor who definitely had one of the most historically impactful influences on France, and Europe in general. The empire he built ruled over Europe for years before collapsing in 1815. He was born in Ajaccio, Corsica, in 1769. His father was Corsica’s representative to the court of Louis XVI. The emperors Charles V and Napoleon I lodged in houses on this road in 1541 and 1793 respectively.
From this road several arched alleys form aqueducts to collect rainwater. The aqueducts in Bonifacio, Corsica, are a remarkable testament to ancient engineering. These grand structures once transported water across the rugged landscape, ensuring a steady supply of water for the citizens of the city. Today, they stand as evocative ruins, a marvel of ingenuity and craftsmanship of the past.
This opportunity to visit Corsica came about because of a special friend having her wedding in the local church, the Église Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Bonifacio built in the 12-13th century. What a truly lovely place to choose for your special day!!
Bonifacio offers a delightful food and café culture that is sure to please all of your taste buds. Known for its vibrant culinary scene, this charming town boasts an array of delicious dishes that reflect the island's rich history and Mediterranean influences. To truly immerse yourself in the charm of Bonifacio, take a leisurely stroll through its narrow streets lined with quaint cafes. There is so much to choose from, it’s hard to make a choice. We had wonderful experiences and met the most wonderful cafe owners and servers…they won our hearts as well as our stomaches.
Chez Ciccio: Our first dinner was a celebration of my nephews Ryan’s birthday and it was exceptional!! (**first pics in the gallery). The waiter was extremely helpful and we enjoyed a VERY nice bottle of wine. It was our most expensive dinner by far, in celebration of the special occasion. The decor was beautiful, and everything really was excellent. It was a choice well made.
Chez Ciccio
9 Rue Saint-Jean Baptiste
20169 Bonifacio
La Loggia: We fell in love with everything about this place, so much so we ate there 3 times. (pictured in the gallery with the blue and white table cloths, the owner taking a picture with us) We loved the food, the wine, the owners, the patrons, the location, the all of all of it. It’s located in the heart of the citadel of Bonifacio, next to the Église Sainte-Marie-Majeure church and has a small sunny terrace serving Corsican and Bonifacien cuisine. We tried to eat there for lunch one day but they were no longer serving food, yet as we were walking away the owner/chef ran out and handed us his homemade curry pasta noodle, still uncooked, to try. Hilarious. We made reservations on the spot for dinner that evening.
We struck up a conversation with the couple next to us on one of the nights and they said they were here for the 2nd time, it’s that good. We all admitted we never do this, but we couldn’t not do it here. The husband and wife team that own the place were beyond lovely & fun with us, he even gifted us with a very random, large, crazy heavy coffee table book of the local golf course where he works as well. He signed the page where he is pictured. (pictured at the end of the gallery) Seriously, so random!! Haha.
La Loggia
2 Rue de la Loggia,
Bonifacio, FR 20169
A Strada di A Biera: Another favorite is this small craft beer bar. So Awesome. (pictured in middle of the gallery). This little cave beer bar was literally right next door to the steps up to our Airbnb, you can see the stairs on the left. The owner is a young craft beer maker himself and showcases up to 90 craft beers all brewed locally on the island. It was love at first sight when we saw this place upon arrival and made a commitment that we would hang out here every day. Sadly, it closed for a special reason and only reopened the day before we left. So here we are, enjoying it on our one and only day.
A Strada di A Biera
8 Rue Longue
Bonifacio, Corse
